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Wednesday, March 28, 2012

BASE FILE MARCH 2011

Logo

Text about what we did here

SUGGESTED USES:













































OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds:
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons):
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds):
  • Color:
  • Bolt placement:
  • Sanding:
  • Hollow backed:
  • Soft back (Rubber backed):
  • Texture:
  • Set size:
  • Versatility:
  • Pre-drilled screw holes:
  • Shaper:
  • Weight:
WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:

PACKING / SHIPPING:

RATING:
Noodles:

Chris:

PROS:
  • YADDA
CONS:
  • YADDA

Review > EP Holds > Comp Slopers and Comp Pinches

So last time we looked at some EP holds was way back, this time there's a new shaper and a new mix the shapes are in urethane and the shaper used to own Stone Age Climbing... yes Sander Culliton is shaping for EP which means there are some great new shapes coming.

The Competition Slopers and Pinches are some of those new shapes and boy do they look good.

Comp Pinches from EP
Comp Slopers from EP











Saturday, March 24, 2012

Interview > Ivan Greene > Pudge Knuckes

Right, as we're writing reviews and have been busy with some side projects you've probably seen that the name of a coffee company has come up a few times in the last month or so. Dave Bursey if you watched his interview talks about them and I've mentioned them in a few videos that are about to be posted. Why you might ask are we even bothering to talk about a bloody coffee company on a site about climbing holds?? Because it's run by Ivan Greene, the man from the Gunks... you know that big ol'mofo that climbs really hard!?! Yeah him, he's a strong climber AND he co-owns Pudge Knuckles!! Plus we love our coffee over here and it's what we've been taking to the gym and it's what fires us up late into the night as we edit and write reviews.

So we had a little chat with Ivan:

1) Name and job
Ivan Greene - Creator and owner of Pudge Knuckles and I'm a rock climber. 

2) You're a sponsored athlete right? By who?
Yes. Currently I am with Adidas Outdoor, Evolv, Edelrid, and team Pudge Knuckles :)

3) As a climber you're probably one of the most focused and intense people out there, much like Obe, your charisma and drive work well when on camera; what are your goals for climbing?
Well considering I have ADD, it's nice to thought of as focused.

Intense yes for sure. Intense like Obe haha. Obe and I are like brothaz from other mothaz. My goals for this upcoming season regarding climbing are... send all of the projects I started working on in the fall up in the Gunks. I found so many new, inspiring lines that are at a new level for me. And a new level for the Gunks. It has turned me on again to what an amazing place it is to climb and how much potential there is for new lines. You will see... I will send  you some pics and vids. There are some already up from the fall.


Other then that, I am writing the new guidebook for Bouldering in the Gunks this season. And really excited to get the Pudge Knuckles climbing team set up! I know so many climbers who are roaming around with those hands... those knuckles.. those PUDGE KNUCKLES!!! No one has ever had true
pride in our swollen fat ass fingers before. Now we can finally walk proud with the chubby digits!

4) You're a big ol bugger as well, do you train for climbing or climb to train?
I'm a big bugger? Is that a reference to my previous porn career? If so, who the hell showed you those films.. and why would you watch them??!! Hmmmn, maybe you are talking about the size of my fingers? Well, I am not big into "training". It is probably my biggest weakness. I have always been pretty uninspired at climbing gyms. Though I do like hanging and having good sessions with my friends, or just playing around in a bouldering cave making up problems.
Back when I was doing route climbing competitions, like 1968 or something, I used to train a lot.. doing laps up and down in the gym. That didn't last that long and the motivation for me for comps was never there authentically. All in all I just don't spend much time on it.  But get me outside on a project I am psyched on and I can be there all day and night.. in the cold, with headlamps and hand warmers in freezing temps. Or in the middle of the hottest days in the summer. I don't give a shit usually about conditions as long as I can be outside climbing or exploring new areas. It's what I have always loved. A few years ago I got really into Parkour for awhile. Oddly because I had arm surgery from rupturing my bicep and all I could do was run and bug out in the urban jungle. It was a form of high intensity ninja like movement that really got me pushing limits in a different way. It was a different flow from climbing and the almost static power of hard bouldering. It was an all out fast paced, high risk, all encompassing flow that felt perfect. Until.... I got really badly injured (torn ALC, destroyed meniscus, torn MCL, and bone fragment damage) and had to have knee surgery last fall. The doctor says I will probably never run again, let alone flip over rails and land on concrete for hours at a time. He even said I should stay away from bouldering because of the impact.. but that aint gonna happen.

 5) I suspect that you know Urban Plastix, the new NY based hold company, have anything to do with them? (if so what)
Yeah... I started shaping holds with my boy Pete. We both really love creating holds. We were planning on going into biz together but I had to bounce to start Pudge Knuckles and he went on to do UP. I'm really psyched for him because he is one of the best shapers I have known and he's really passionate about it. A true gift when talent matches passion. I haven't kept up with what he's been doing specifically with UP but I am sure if he is shaping.. it is f-in dope!!


6) Inside or outside (Ups and downs of both)
Haha.. see above answer about training. I guess the best things about inside climbing are the friends and good vibes. It's cool to see a bunch of peeps climbing and having good music and a positive vibe at a gym. Feels great. And it can be fun pushing each other and buggin out. Outside... don't know where to start... it's infinite. I love climbing outside... always have. For me this is climbing. 

7) Home gym... which one is it? (as in where you climb in the winter)
Right now I have been pretty focused on Pudge Knuckles. Building the cafe and launching the brand. We just got the website up and these crazy Canadians and Japanese have been ordering our coffees like it was laced in crack (I'm not sayin' it aint). So I gotta stay on the 'grind". Peeps need the beans.. so I gotta keep roasting and coming up with the new freshness. But if I have an hour or so, I bust over to Chelsea Piers to hang in the cave. And I don't know how it's been in the north pole where you guys are.. but down here this winter has been..well, not winter. Up until I got mad busy last month, I was climbing in the Gunks straight through. And I'm planning on getting back out this week at least one day. 

8) Now, lets talk about something that we're super stoked on.... Pudge Knuckles... care to explain the ethos of it all?
WE ARE ALL PUDGE KNUCKLES! Have a sip.. just one. Just ry it.. come on... it can't hurt ::))) I will explain more... later. But for now, lets just enjoy it! 

9) So a climber making coffee... interesting, how did this start?
Bro, probably like you.. I've been making strong ass coffee since before I started climbing. Obsessed! Just one of them things. I met my partner in PUDGE, Hartje Andresen, climbing. We were both always psyched to climb and always met for coffee before. Or one of us would bring some coffee out to the crag and boast about how this was the serious shit. We were in the process of trying to find the best coffee maker.. her being from Europe, she boasted about this company that made the most ridiculously good machines. So we tried finding them. The only way we could track them down was through a distributor. He told us to meet him at this roasting spot out here in Brooklyn and while we were waiting for him to show up I started looking at the roasting machines. Hmmm... the idea came to me. I asked the roaster guy a million questions and by the time the dude with the coffee machine showed up Pudge Knuckles was born. I was like damn... I can create my own blends and roasts of coffee. Instead of the endless search for good coffee, I could create the strong ass climber coffee. Just how we like it. And so it was.. I left Red Bull and decided to do my version of energy drinks. The Godfather of all energy drinks.. coffee. Hartje and I spent all last year learning the art and mastery of the bean. Then bought a friggin cafe full of all the dopest coffee machines to make the PUDGE. 


10) Lets talk about the coffee itself, Dave sent me a bag of the Organic Dark. Now let me set something straight, I love coffee, people have been trained to not even speak to me in the morning until I've got a coffee in my hand... and I drink a lot of coffee, today I had my first cup and I was sold at the first sip. I had two mugs of coffee before work and I didn't touch another one all day... and I drink coffee all day. So tell me about this coffee, get all coffee geek on me!
That, my friend, was our first blend. What we did was invite a few dozen of our climbing friends over and tasted about 6 different roast and blends we had come up with. By the end of this highly caffeinated research project, everyone loved that blend. Two organic beans... one from Peru and the other from Sumatra. Roasted to that specific taste that you now know as EAST COAST THRILLER. I had to name it after a high balls boulder problem here in the Gunks. It's like the same feeling 
you get!!

11) So how hard was it to set up a coffee company?
Oh boy... thank god I have a mental illness that makes me want to do hard things. Explore new experiences. Climbing has taught me this... If I am going to do something harder and more bad ass then anything I have ever done before I had sure better be ready to feel it. And to push through... to push, knowing that the vision becomes reality. The first sips you had of PUDGE make it that reality bro. 

12) Coffee and climbing go hand in hand for you?
Always has... always will. 


13) How do we get your coffee in Canada?
PUDGEKNUCKLES.COM baby!! It works. Or just go to Dave's gym :). Or raid your stash. 


14) Whats in the future?
Let's just see about that...

Review > Urban Plastix > Speed Bumps & Ditches

There seems to be a lot of good things coming out of New York these days; Pudge Knuckles coffee, a mug of which is steaming at my elbow and then Urban Plastix, a new company that has sprung up recently and has been somewhat of a surprise.

Here's a little bit about them from their site: "Urban Plastix (UP) is based in Brooklyn, New York. We are a climber-owned company bringing the next level of passion to your indoor climbing experience. Being in the big city, inspiration comes in a slew of different forms for the typical climber. Our head shaper, Peter Juhl, lives here in Brooklyn and draws his inspiration from the art and culture that the magnificent city has to offer. Urban Plastix has been working behind the scenes for 2 years before presenting our holds to the public. This extended period of time has given us the chance to completely refine our line and make it the best it can possibly be for you. We hope to inspire you and grow the sport of climbing through the art and culture that drives us all to be better and keep moving UP"

So without much more ado here's what we're looking at, rather than review the holds separately we decided as UP is a new company to run a big review on the two sets they they sent us:
Urban Plastix: Ditches
Urban Plastix: Ditches



Urban Plastix:Speed Bumps
Urban Plastix:Speed Bumps



















The Ditches are from the UP site are meant for intermediate climbers and the Speed Bumps are meant for advanced climbers, its nice to see a company class their holds in this way as it means you kind of know from the images and descriptions what you're going to get. We didn't know what we were getting despite being given a heads up on what we were going to get to review, but it seems Peter has obviously seen our videos so he sent something that would challenge us.

Challenge us they did, the two sets were set as one long route that rolled in around V5 or V6 and was then made easier at a later date, we alternated the holds and setters as we went setting feet afterwards to make something that would really put us and the holds through their paces. If you look at the Ditches then you have these wonderful slopey crimps that allow you to really get you pads into them without any sharp edges, and then you have the Speed Bumps which rather than being incut have small slopey ledges for you to grab on, both sets are both pretty low profile and don't take up much space on your wall. Once set we started climbing and man was that a climb!

Starting with a Dimple you have the option to hit the long thin Speed Bump, it looked like you could match it but after numerous attempts it's apparent that it's not going to happen easily at all (We didn't give people beta on this route at all when they first climb it), so you have a long cross that goes down well and then you have to transition into the 45 degree wall and two holds that are on the red volume. The first hold you hit which is the biggest Dimple is something that looks (again) like an easy match... HA!, not at all, you need precise hand placement or you can't match, and then you hit a Speed Bump undercut... that's the crux moves, or so we thought! After that the route gets stretchy and balancy to a level where any climber under 5'6 is going to suffer. Look at the videos (before we changed it) and the moves he's making to get this route done, he's struggling, he's working and he's working HARD!

So Dimple, Speed Bump, Dimple, Speed Bump rinse and repeat :) To the end if you can make it, most can't so the route was made a little easier and even then it's still hard, these holds even on a vertical wall will make you work, there's nothing easy about them, but they are some sublime shapes when you get down to it. The shaping is superb, the pouring and sanding is superb (These aren't poured in NY they're poured by a different company) and these holds for a start up company that's just started have just flat out knocked it out of the m'fking box


SUGGESTED USES BOTH SETS:







So, obviously we love these holds, that's pretty easy to see. We'd only go to 45 degrees with these holds but don't rule out blind slaps on aretes, especially when considering the Speed Bumps. You'll not find better quality out there from a new company, we love the technical movements that can be forced with these holds. You can really do some very interesting things with these guys, the Ditches are way easier if you want something that really rolls with your training and these holds definitely work better on the steeper angles. The Speed Bumps are hard, harder than they look and they will catch you out even when you know the holds and where you want to hit them, you need to be very precise with them!

OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds: 5 holds for both sets
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds):
    • Ditches: 5 holds / 50 = $10 per hold
    • Speed Bumps: 5 holds / 60 = $12 per hold
  • Color: Ditches are yellow / Speed Bumps are orange
  • Bolt placement: Middle
  • Sanding: Great
  • Hollow backed: No
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): No
  • Texture: Good
  • Set size: Medium to large
  • Versatility: Great
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
  • Shaper: Peter Juhl
  • Weight: TBC
From start to finish there isn't much to complain about these holds, they've done an outstanding job in the shapes and in the forms that you'll receive. There aren't any set screw holes which is a problem and there isn't a UP logo on the shapes either, its something we've come to expect from pretty much every company these days... but we can forgive them this one time because they're new; but they did say that they'd done their research... so I guess they just messed up.

The colors a vibrant and bold, the shapes are well defined and great on your fingers and the texture give enough bite that will allow for long sessions without worn out skin. Like seriously long sessions, the texture is just just enough it's the shapes and the smooth radii that allows you to haul all day long and not worry. And that's what will always make the difference between a good shape and an awesome shape, the shaping and molding go hand in hand, bad shaping and good molding makes a bad shape, good shaping and good molding makes a great shape and that's what we're talking about

It's a hard thing to write about overall build when there's pretty much nothing wrong with the holds. Of course we'd like to see bigger expanded ranges of these holds, but that's what we always want :)

The one gripe that does spring to mind (Thanks for reminding me there Mark) one of the holds was a little miss sanded but a few millimeters, again no real biggie but when they've done so well from the start then it's kind of a shame.

WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Urethane

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Good

RATING:
Noodles:

Chris:

PROS:
  • YADDA
CONS:
  • YADDA

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Monday, March 12, 2012

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Review > Metolius Climbing > Wood Grips


Back in the day eh? I guess we're going a bit back in the day as I Noodles, Jeremy, whatever is the person writing this review.... it's been a while since I've done this, normally I just edit the videos and edit the videos... add my comments etc. This time it's all me... so back in the day for me, back in the day for you because last time we looked at these holds was 4 years ago and we only had a few of them and then there's Metolius, one of the oldest companies out there for when it comes to making grips for climbers

So it's back back back in the day :)

This time we have 24 of these holds, 24! That's a bunch of holds... so before further ado lets show you what we're talking about:
We have a mixed bag as the walk through shows, a little of column A and a little of column B... 24 wooden holds that well with the way we set kind of put us through the ringer. First of all we set a very long route with all of the holds that was a pump fest at best. Then because I'm a genius I decided to set four boulder problems that could be linked together as one nice long problem.

 Were either of these problems a wise move?

Well yes and no, and this is on no account of the holds being the problem. Normally we have a process for playing with new holds, we set simple problems and then string them together and then we set the long route. This time we went the other way with it and normally we get to grips with the holds and then we kind of know what we're getting into; this time we fk'd up a little. We learned in the process of this review to keep to what we know... do it the other way :)

So wood grips, some people say that they're no good, some people love them. We've got some of the heavy varnished ones and now we have the non varnished ones and we love them equally; for long sessions where you just want to work endurance on the wall there really isn't much to complain about, sure you don't get the grip and they're no good for really training for the outside (texture wise) but for pottering around and just working hard there are few holds that really come close.

Of course like the above says there are downsides to these holds but they're really minor things that aren't that much of a problem... you can't use these guys outside, they'll just suck up moisture and will become useless quickly; if you loose the little washers then you need to get some more (we glue ours in because we got fed up with loosing them) but they're all comfortable holds and wood takes set screws easily.

Wooden holds, like I said in the walk through "is mother natures dual texture", it really is and these holds although not being dual texture are no texture... good for the skin, no harsh chemicals are used making them and as they're made from off cuts of wood from a furniture factory they are kind of recycled. So generally it's a win win situation that's for sure.

So obviously changing our M.O around didn't work out.. but how did the holds climb?
VIDEO HERE OF US CLIMBING
You can see, once you get past the epic titles (that someone will complain about, sorry I was having some fun) that the holds climbed really well, we, well I, set hard and nasty to start with because we're all of a grade over here that it should be possible to take the four problems and then link them into one route. Thus far that hasn't been done because you're so pumped from the first third of the route that when you actually get to the last "problem", which is also the hardest, you're just done. Even Mark D couldn't finish it and he's the strongest tallest guy that comes to play.

Overall we had fun, no one got hurt and our skin stayed intact.

SUGGESTED USES:








Stick them anywhere indoors, the 24 holds we have have been all over the place since we received them and the shapes are so big and friendly that you can hold 90% of them on the roof... it may not be easy going but it's not impossible. There are actually 50 holds in the entire range and they come in packs of 5 or 25 (maybe we lost one of them... hmm); so there is a bunch for you to choose from, we've had a blast playing with them because as we all know variety is the spice of life and these holds when set properly can be super easy or super hard, it's your choice

OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds: 25
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds): 179/25 = $7.10 per hold
  • Color: Wood
  • Bolt placement: Center
  • Sanding: Good, it's all over the holds!!
  • Hollow backed: No
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): No
  • Texture: Wooden texture
  • Set size: Small to large
  • Versatility: Great
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
  • Shaper: TBC
  • Weight: TBC

These holds are a little rough and ready, but that's part of their charm; they're not the best finished holds on the planet but they do get the job done. They could be sanded down to be a little smoother in places to make them just look at little better, it won't really make much of a difference to how they climb

All of the shapes have nice rounded profiles that are nice to your digits, you're not going to get off of the wall complaining about your skin being ragged to hell. When you're really bearing down on the holds you can get a really good grip even when the holds are chalked up. If you look at the texture it's pretty even across the board, you're grabbing onto wooden shapes so if you want texture grab some sand and glue and add it where you want it, it's pretty simple and these holds are probably the easiest to customize for your needs, if you want a little more incut?? Grab some sand paper and go at it!

These holds aren't the cheapest out there (we thought that they were a little cheaper to be honest) but our original holds have been around for four years and they're still going strongly, there's no reason why these holds won't do the same.

No set screw holes is something we always complain about and as usual we'll give you our normal rant. These holds don't have set screw holes, but you can add them yourself and as per usual it's something that we feel should be added at least to the larger more prone to spinning shapes.

WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Wood

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Good

RATING:
Noodles:
It's going to be tricky for me to write comments because I actually wrote the review this week. All of the above has been talked about with the crew for a while with people adding their little bits and pieces of things that they feel should be added.

So, what to talk about?

Sod it, lets talk about these holds.

I like them, I actually asked Metolius to send them to me because I wanted to add an addition to one of our first reviews which to be honest this is something that I'll be doing from time to time on here. I'll try to look at at least the first years worth of reviews and will try to update them, either through putting the holds through the process again or be just updating the original review; I haven't decided which way I'm going to roll with this yet.

So wood, it's an interesting medium that's for sure, it's one of the best for making home made holds when you don't have the budget to buy new shapes and it's something that over time gets better and better to hold onto. Our original wood grips didn't get to be fun to climb on until we got them all dirty and chalked, now they're still hard as hell on a steep wall but they're a little more doable on the whole. As these holds aren't varnished they climbed really well from the start, there wasn't a bedding in period before they started to climb well.... and that's why we set smaller routes before the big ones!



The holds, when we review them, are used from new for months at a time before we actually weigh in and write a review.... holds, like a new set of home speakers need time to bed in, these don't, straight out of the box they were just good to climb on. Sure they're not the best looking mofo's on the planet but they're simple and clean and at times when the moon is just right, the music puts you in the right mood and the candles flicker in the breeze a little... that's what you need, you just didn't know it :P

Now the all important question: Do I like them? Yeah I do, I don't like the over $7 per hold price tag for them that's for sure because they're not that hard or complex to make, but I do enjoy climbing on them!!

Mark D:
So, what we have here is a set of classic climbing holds, just this time they're wood. I have to say, from my experience on them, they don't have the problem that I usually get on wood climbing holds; and that is that they don't seem to get slick once I start sweating. Some wood holds become ultra-slick as soon as I heat up or it starts getting warm and so far I haven't seen this happen with them.

The texture isn't a problem, they don't weigh too much and they fit pretty much everywhere. For a go everywhere set, I like them. They weren't created as the most creative holds shape wise but given their purpose they live up to it.

On top of their overall good quality, I also like the fact that we are using wood here, because I am getting tired of climbing on plastic come this time of the winter. Good holds, more ecological than the classic urethane or resin hold and a fine addition to any gym or home bouldering wall.

PROS:
  • YADDA
CONS:
  • YADDA