== == Web Traffic

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Interview > Limestone Software > Grade Converter


Aight, we've been busy the last week with competitions and reviews, this week we're taking a quick break... but we're not just sitting on our asses, nope, we were contacted by Limestone Software about a free app that they made to make a climbers life just that little bit easier.

Making apps isn't easy, look at Noodles, he makes video games for a living and it's no fun thing. Now Limestone (who are Montreal based) have put out a climbing grade converter for free, we decided to sit down and have a chat with them about it.

Route converter
1. Name and job
François Campeau full time software developer at Asset Science and co-founder of Limestone Software and Martin Morissette, full time software developer at 8D Technologies and co-founder of Limestone Software. 

2. Company name, and what do you do?
Limestone Software is an indie mobile application development company focused on crafting quality consumer software. We are currently concentrating our efforts towards the design of iPhone and iPad applications related to our fields of interest, namely climbing and photography.


Bouldering conversion

3.  So you decided to make a grade converter why?
We found that the market lacked a well designed and tough out climbing grade converter and we needed one for out last trip to Tonsai in Thailand. Furthermore, Redpoint was a great starting point to familiarize ourselves with the submission process on the Apple App Store and the perfect little app to start out our company's portfolio. 

4. What formats is the converter available upon?
Redpoint is currently only available for iOS devices (iPhone, iPod Touch and iPad) We are open to porting it to other platform if there is enough demand for it.

5.  You're not making money... was this a conscious decision?
Yes we were very conscious of that fact when we launched Redpoint and it's important for us that always remains free. Although elegantly designed ;-) we don't feel people should have to pay for such a simple app. See it as a gift to the climbing community which as been very generous to us since we started climbing a few years ago and also a way to get our company's name out there.




6.  Do you have plans for more climbing related apps?
Yes we have lot's of ideas for more climbing related apps but right now we are focusing on our second app which will be photography related


You can get the Grade Converter from the below two links, if you like it please review it!!

Sunday, March 20, 2011

New SO ILL


Review >Teknik > No Shadow Hands / Feet & Fat Sloper








Prepare to get spanked! The name "No Shadow" is not used lightly in the case of the No Shadow hands and feet from Teknik Handholds. We picked these sets up with the Fat Sloper down at the Mountain Equipment Co-op, Noodles as he has some time on his hands has decided to run some (what we call) Blind Tests. We know full well that people will send us holds that are built superbly, but what happens when you get them from a store and not direct from the company? Well this is us helping you, of course we suggest you inspect all holds before buying them but we just walked in, picked em up, payed and walked out...

So if you break down the No Shadow sets, they're like the the Top Out Slopers from Climb It but waaaaay thinner. Noodles even decided to be nice and get the Fat Sloper so we could actually have a hold that we could hold onto. The No Shadow sets (which is two hands and two feet) and Fat Sloper are nice simple shapes, but they are each unique on their own. The Fat Sloper is a shape that you will often see from Teknik. We have other slopers from Teknik that we've had for years and the and this one is similar, but something new at the same time

Our wall is mostly made up of angles from 60 to 45 degrees and the No Shadow sets are pretty much impossible so we broke down the angle by using bolt on features. Putting the hold onto Motivation volume and the Nicros Jug or Not we ended up using the No Shadow feet as hand holds really thin "oh my god hand holds" but hand holds none the less, most people would look at these and would dismiss them as useless for hands AND feet but we like to use hand holds as footholds and as these are evil we figured we'd give it a bash, although with the volumes, the climbs and pulling on these holds became feasible  the spanking was just about to begin.

Jackie came over to play. We haven't seem him in awhile and now that he's off from school he could have a go at the sloper fest that was about to begin. We stayed off the angled walls for our first set but we kept the No Shadow holds on the volumes. It seemed easy enough when we set. Three moves, to and from the Fat Sloper with the No Shadow holds on volumes. The starting holds are No Shadow feet while the finishing hold is a No Shadow hand hold on a Motivation volume. Like a classic sloper problem it was all about balance and foot placement. Before moving onto the 45, we set one more problem on the vertical wall. Jackie had a height advantage and cruised the sequence while the rest of us spent spent some time figuring out which feet to use.

If we thought the vertical wall was giving us a lesson in humility, the problems set on the angled walls were a step above. Even Jackies length wasn't going to help him through these sequences. The first problem we set started on the 60 degree wall and it ended up being to hard for any of us to complete. So we moves onto the the roof and started a problem with two feet on a Motivation volume. We learned our lessons from the previous problems and made a sequence we could all manage. In the end we relied on brute strength and ignorance to complete the problem ;)

What you're looking at when you realistically look at the No Shadow hands are competition holds pure and simple, they are really specific, super thin and super hard holds to get onto. If we're honest (and we're proud that we are) these don't really have much of a place on a home wall! On a gym wall on a corner problem they're going to be amazing, on a slab they'll be super fun but as they're hard on a vertical wall and you can only really hold them in one direction we'd probably suggest passing on them.... that is unless you like super balanced moves or you can top out on your wall!! If you want some evil Fontainbleu style top outs then these are the ticket for you!

The No Shadow Feet.. well they're super thin and hard for feet, so they're brilliant. They're footholds that you have to be super careful with and you have to work to be able to use them, these have a place on everyone's wall, no matter where... same goes for the Fat Sloper, it's awesome fun. It's big enough and fun enough that Noodles went to a different store (same company, different location) to go and get another one. It's hard but do-able hard for everyone and we'd suggest you grab it if you can... and then try to hold it... fall off... get back on etc :D

SUGGESTED USES:
















Sloper madness like these holds are best suited for vertical walls and slab climbing. With the exception of the Fat Sloper, both the No Shadow foot holds and handholds don't have much to offer when it comes to an angled wall. Lucky for us we have volumes hanging around so we could manage to set problems on angled walls. Even so, the holds make for setting hard problems and we didn`t have much success in sending most of the problems on overhanging terrain. The problems are hovering around a V7 but since Mark, the strongest climber in our group is in Horse Pens 40, its hard to gauge.

We're going to suggest shallow angles for the No Shadow Hands, any angle except a roof for the feet and the Fat Sloper... we'll go as mad as you want :)

OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds:
    • No Shadow Hands and Feet: 2 hands and 2 feet
    • Fat Sloper is one hold
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds) 
    • NOTE: These were store brought and it's better to get the Fat Sloper in the 5 set (for more fun) and more of the No Shadow Hands in larger sets
  • Color: Fat Sloper is green / No Shadow Feet are blue and the No Shadow Hands are Purple
  • Bolt placement: Middle
  • Sanding: Great
  • Hollow backed: The Fat Sloper is
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): No
  • Texture: Classic Teknik i.e: superb
  • Set size: Small to large
  • Versatility: Little
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
  • Shaper: Seth for the Fat Sloper / Zoe for the No Shadow Hands and Feet
  • Weight: Various

From the little Teknik star to the hollow back on the Fat Sloper there are little details on these holds, Teknik holds are always special to hold and we know of people that have broken a classic Teknik (resin) shape and has had a funeral service for that hold :) The sanding is great, the colors are consistent across the board and the bolt holes are well placed and drilled. Considering these are from a store it's bloody impressive.


The color of the No Shadow Hands is great it's a nice dark purple that really looks nice, the No Shadow Feet are a baby blue that's good and even and the Fat Sloper is an off green that looks quite nice. All of the holds were board mounted with bolts and T Nuts included, the packaging is nice and simple (like the shapes) and it looks pretty kick ass on a rack in a store.


If you have a wall or you set you know that Teknik means quality, but sometimes your budget is going to suffer for it a little. Sure, they will last a lifetime (if taken care of) but and lets look at one set the Tron Disks that we want on our wall... 10 holds at $65 = $6.50 per hold and they're not that big, not big at all. $6.50 per hold for something about  2 inches across stops us from buying them. And that's our point, you pay for what you get when it comes to Teknik, they know that they make quality holds so they charge you for it, sometimes it's a stiff price to pay and other times you just don't get the holds you want :(


WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Urethane

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Brought in store. All holds were on boards with bolts and T nuts included

RATING:
Noodles:
Argh, thanks to the person on the team that wrote the review... I"m in trouble :) HA! Fuck it, who cares. Teknik Handholds are...

Wait for it...

The shit.

They have been for a long time and they remain as one of my favorites, their quality is amazing and the shapes are sooo nice it's just silly. I love reviewing Teknik shapes, I love seeing them and just getting my hands on them. Shame they're bloody expensive, I'd buy more but even at wholesale prices I stop and think twice. I have an order form in my desk drawer for a bunch of stuff, hell I mailed for a price a few weeks back because I wanted to a) climb on the shapes and b) wanted to review their holds some more... it's one of those things where I look at our budget and then spend it else where because I can get more holds from different company's... the Fat Sloper, I want all of them, the Tron Disks I want them, the Pinchtite... I WANT IT NOW! The Mathematics, man I love those holds, gimme gimme gimme. Maybe I should stop being such a tight ass with money...

Oh are you guys surprised? Yeah, we pay for holds... it ain't all a free ride!


When it comes to Teknik holds can someone just send me the entire range so I can be happy?

I got my ask kicked, I believe I was the only person on the vertical wall to use the No Shadow Hands and actually get some weight onto the buggers... the Fat Sloper is fun as hell. So here's the bottom line...
No Shadow Hands: Top outs / vertical walls / blind arete slaps / Stemming routes
No Shadow Feet: Use them as hands, you'll be surprised but pretty much the same as above
Fat Sloper: Just buy this hold, in 10 years when it's classic you'll thank me

Chris:

I've always liked Teknik holds. I have the notion that these are the holds that will make you strong. I just wish they had a wider selection of holds. It seems to me that they keep re-working their classic shapes into something new and discontinuing the older shapes. Hey Teknik, give us more shapes!

As for these sets in particular, I'm split between them. We have a resin sloper (not made anymore) from Teknik and I found that it was a little smaller and easier to pinch then the Fat Sloper and the No Shadow Hands are just about grabbable, but they're still super hard to hold.

Considering these were brought in store I think the quality is amazing and they've done a great job.

PROS:
  • Amazing quality
  • Great colors
  • Superb texture and climbing fun!
CONS:
  • The No Shadow Holds aren't for the faint of heart at all
  • Prices may put people off a little

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Tuesday, March 8, 2011


Friday, March 4, 2011

Review > DRCC > D Balls


Are you a baller? Do you like balls? Well this week it's a treat for you... the word BALLS is going to be used a lot over the course of this review. Why? Mainly because of these:
D Balls
D Ball Halves

Big D Balls
The DRCC as you're probably well versed by now have been making some of the best holds that are out on the market right now; but this time if we're honest they may have done messed up :( Opinions over here at climbingholdreview are split. There's the Noodles camp that's "they're rubbish" and then there's the Everybody else camp and that's "they're awesome!" One thing has to be stated these holds are the second set that Allison shaped and that's a thing to be very proud of, the shaping on the Big D Balls is great... well great until you look closely at the above image. Do you see what we see? No? Let's look closer:
You think you're getting four different holds, but you're not, you're actually getting the same shape four times... just they're poured shallow. Ok? That's fine you're thinking, I get four slopers of differing depths. Yup you do, but you're throwing close to $200 at these four holds alone. Sure the biggest guy is pretty damn big, but all the DRCC has done is make a mold and then pour to different depths; when you think about it they're either being genius' or they're being cheap. If you look closely at the backs of the holds you can tell that they're actually coming out of two different molds... they hollow backs are different (at least the bracing inside) So what they've done is make the master, cast it twice for the different depth pours and bobs your uncle... four new holds. It does kind of sound like we're bitching here (mainly because we are), $199.95 for four holds, that's nigh on $50 per hold and they're not technically that big, the price seems a little steep.
The Big D Balls when it comes to the three sets of holds are the ones we really liked, despite the fact that no matter how many times you start the same problem you always seem to grab them in a different way (see Noodles comments below for a video)

And then you get to the smaller holds, there are 10 more to look at. If you look closely they've done the same thing again. Both sets are just shallow pours of each other, so again you're getting two not identical sets of holds. Genius or madness, you tell us! When it comes to the smaller holds they're a major point of contention around here, normally there would only be a few people commenting but this review has generated comments from pretty well everyone that came and climbed on them. The D Ball Halves and the D Balls all climb pretty well and even though you are climbing on duplicate holds you don't really notice too much, if at all.

One thing that has to be noted is that every when we did the walk through we didn't notice that the holds were just smaller versions of each other, it was when we were playing with the holds on the wall that we noticed this we should have figured it out from the names :P

 We've had them all over the wall in most scenarios that we could think of and they're a hoot to set and play with (once you get over the same shape different depth stuff), the larger D Balls are the ones you really want the rest... well go and read the comments for what we think of those, there's not really any reading between the lines for pretty much the entire team

SUGGESTED USES:








With some of the holds you can go steep, hell, we had some of the larger more incut balls up on the roof and it made for some stiff climbing and some interesting hand matches. The D Ball Halves and D Balls are pretty well door knobs so you can wrap your hand around them and just crank, the Big D Balls end up being huge slap happy slopers or technical balance monsters depending upon where you place them.


Normally we'd suggest that home wall owners go and grab the smaller versions for their walls, this time we're going the other way as the Big D Balls are the most fun and are quite versatile for their size and shape. It is kind of a shame that you can't buy them as singles as well as a four hold set.

OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds:
    • Big D Balls:$199.95
    • D Ball Halves: $44.99
    • D Balls: $54.99
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt on
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds):
    • Big D Balls:199.95 / 4 = $49.98 USD
    • D Ball Halves: 44.99 / 6 = $7.50 per USD
    • D Balls: 54.99 / 6 = $9.16 USD
  • Color:
    • Big D Balls: Ours are mixed, green, pink, dark green and bluw
    • D Ball Halves: Yellow
    • D Balls: Pink / peach
  • Bolt placement: Middle
  • Sanding: Bang on
  • Hollow backed: Yes, some of the time
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): Yes
  • Texture: Great
  • Set size: Small to large
  • Versatility: Ok
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
  • Shaper: Allison O
  • Weight: Some holds are hollow backed, others aren't

We're going to sound like a broken record on the hollow backs... some of these holds (The Big D Balls aside) are hollow backed and some aren't, the shapes are very similarly sized so there really seems to rhyme or reason to why this has been done.

As usual there is little to complain about with the DRCC and their quality, all of the holds are very well built and there aren't any real blemishes to even mention. From the DRCC logo to the rubber back as usual they've done a superb job. Well til you realize you've just brought the same set a couple of times :)

There aren't any set screw holes in the big guys, they would have been hard to add to the larger shapes but it's something that could have been added. Unless of course the set comes with the rubber back as standard (and included within the price), not that we had any problems with the holds spinning when we were using them but mainly because some gyms will want to put a screw in to be safe.

Our colors were a mixed bag with these guys, each set was a different color (not that we specified (but we did pay for these holds)) and the colors are all nice and even without any problems anywhere, same for the sanding which was perfect

WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Urethane

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Superb

RATING:
Noodles:
Hate is a harsh word, balls is seemingly a funny word. Balls is something that I'd use a lot to explain the smaller sets of holds, they just (for me) don't work very well, they seem tacked on, an after thought as this is where the fun and genius of the Big D Balls begins. Grabbing Allisons balls is a treat, even if they are just different pours of the same shape. The biggest shape of the lot is the one where you'll probably have the most fun, but I have a small problem with the slot that's on the side, it's not really needed... well it's kind of needed when it's on the roof... other than that it means people will just monkey through the move and stop using the shape for it's intended purpose... pock marked fun.

Did I say fun? I meant pain. I'm going to get down to base facts, I love the large holds, the smaller ones are rubbish and they're all painful for me to hold

Painful for me. Not for anyone else. There's a set of holds from Sequence Climbing that if their website was actually working then I'd not have to go and get my camera and have to take a picture... give me a sec:
Sequence Climbing's Moon Rock??
This hold (above) hurts my hands and fingers, it's the same as the balls, they hurt my hands... pure and simple :) There's nothing wrong with the way they're shaped or made, either for the Sequence shapes or the Balls they just hurt me... the wide pinching moves just for some reason just give me a bunch of pain. For the review I didn't really notice but when I stopped the next day my fingers hurt; no one else had that problem so it's just a me problem. As soon as I stopped playing with them then the pain went away.
I'd have had no problems if the holds were a bunch of slopers of different shapes and sizes, the dimples just simply fuck me up.

Wrapping up: half the shapes are hollow backed some aren't, what up with that? Also whilst I'm on a rant about these holds I'm not sure that having the same hold repeated through out a set multiple times is cheap or genius...

The bottom line is I like the Big D Balls, I wish I could climb on them more. The smaller versions should be binned. Sorry, hard to read and pretty hard to write but sometimes life jumps up and bites you on the ass.

Chris:
We've had our fair share of DRCC holds come through our door and the D Balls are of a different flavor. We've had holds like the duo texture slots or the setters delight, but the balls are much larger and friendlier than what I'm used to seeing from DRCC.

The set ranges in difficulty, where the smaller holds are much easier to grip. The holds have large dimples on them and are a breeze to pinch. As for the larger guys, well they're of a slightly different flavor in that they act more like a sloper and are harder to grip.

This set is pretty generic and you can find these kinds of spherical shapes from other hold suppliers but as usual, the DRCC has taken a classic design and made it better. The hold that stands out for me is the largest hold that we received, the large green guy we stuck on the roof. There is a small jug hidden in the back and it can be strategically placed to force moves. The dimply texture of these holds make all the difference. It makes for plenty of options, no matter the size of the hold but it is also its Achilles heel. The dimples are pronounced and give you plenty to hold onto and although they're really positive and easy to grip, they're small enough that you could feel some finger strain when you put a lot of weight on your fingers.


Mark:
This set of holds I found had it`s ups and it`s downs. For sure not to get me wrong, they were professionally manufactured, don`t weigh much and have prefect texture. I suppose my perception of the downs comes from the fact that all the holds are very similar. There are big slopping balls and there are fist sized balls. The big ones definitely stick out as different and can be fun but I find that they all grab the same way and feel the same. As for the small balls, they have edges and you can pinch or crimp them and it`s really challenging to have a small sloper since they`re just too positive.

The plus side of being that positive is that you can play with the small sizes on overhangs and vertical walls and don`t have to be some sort of god-child to climb them. The big slopers are definitely workable in almost all angles; can be used for knee jams sometimes, and there is one that is really shallow to the wall and you are stuck working a open handed sloper pinch off of all the little indentations. 
 
Overall a good set of holds but I think they could of passed and not made the smaller holds altogether. 

Eve:
If it wasn't for the nauseating amount of ball jokes that these holds inspired out of our jolly bunch of idiots, these slopers, no wait crimps, no wait...  well whatever they are, the D Balls sure are entertaining!  The colours are the usual DRCC unusual and the texture is comfortable.  The holds were slippery at first but the chalk and climbing fixed that.  They are amazingly fun climbing holds but they are hard to understand.  It's as if there is no actual way to hold them comfortably.  They are definitely slopers but hurt your fingers like they were crimps.  I have to mention at this point that while reviewing these holds, I have only been talking about the large D Balls since the small ones I quickly ignored after trying. You can pretty much only grab the smaller holds like a door knob - whatever wall angle they are set on and whatever your hand size - making them boring at best.  I don't think they should even be used by beginners because they don't encourage good hand and finger technique.  Conclusion, big balls are versatile, fun and challenging, little balls I can do without...  That's what she said!   ;)

Bobby:
I generally like these holds. We set a bunch of fun balance problems with the four large holds. Unfortunately not as much with the smaller ones. I guess this derives from the fact that they are all too similar to each other.  They all come from the same  mold, more or less, just poured at different depths, they just got boring fast.

As for the four large ones, they are also repeats of each other but get a way with it. These holds did offer some inspiration when setting, balance was definitely  the theme of most the problems we managed to set with them, and they almost always end up as a match, but I still liked them. Of the four, the largest was the only one that was really easy or could be used on a ceiling comfortably.

These are holds I would like to see on the wall again...    maybe just the big balls.


PROS:
  • Large set sizes
  • Interesting take on shaping / pouring
  • The Big D Balls are fun on steep terrain
CONS:
  • All of the holds are different depth of other shapes
  • Prices seem steep
  • Some holds are hollow backed others aren't and the shapes are very similar sizes

Wednesday, March 2, 2011