== == Web Traffic

Friday, January 18, 2008

Review > Holdz > Dual Texture Pockets

Holdz

What's got some mad swirly colors, a slick outside casing and a textured inner?
If you're thinking of something that Willy Wonker has made in his sweet factory you'd be close, but wrong! We're talking about the Dual Texture Pockets that Holdz sent us over the holiday period. Now there are holds that have a swirl color system, and then there are these:
Not only do that stand out on the wall but the climb amazingly, lets talk more about the colours and then we'll talk about the shapes... Not only are the shapes nice but Holdz holds come in lots of very bright very vibrant colors, how many colours?? THIS MANY COLOURS!!
and it doesn't stop there.. oh no, they'll make two or three colour swirls for you and offer spotty holds as well (You'll see these more in a later review), our holds are the three colour variety, white, pink and blue, they look like bubble gum! They stand out on the wall and just want to be pulled on... here's what they look like on the floor..Now when you get these holds you're going to notice someting stamped on the back, this is the quality control stamp,it means that it's free from defects. The holds are also strength tested, and checked to make sure that the backs are flat and the bolt is perpendicular to the back of the hold so they will lay flat to the wall... all to international standards So you're going to get quality through the post. Quality that's been 12 years in the making... Steve the owner has been shaping for over 12 years, he shaped the Jerry Moffat ranges for DR climbing walls and has shaped for King Kong, Bendcrete and French Rock, so he knows the hold game pretty damn well! :P

Right lets get onto the holds...
The first thing that you'll notice is that these holds are dual texture, not half arsed dual texture but the real deal. Depending upon the hold you're going to notice that the contact area is very well defined and that the rest of the hold is slick as hell, you're going to find that if you want to force a move that these holds are going to be amazing, there is no way that your foot is going to stick on the outside, you're going to have to be very exact with what you do or you'll find yourself on the floor! Kinda just like the outside, a good hand hold but a crap foot hold!

Setting with the holds will make you think, we're lucky as we set a huge route with the 5 sets of holds that we got, so we mixed and matched between the Mini Jugz, the Dual Texture Crimpz, the Dual Texture Pocketz, the Screw Onz and the Crimpz. (The other holds will be reviewed in the future) But as we were reviewing the pockets we paid attention to where they were and what moves we wanted to make happen. It's pretty easy, the holds can only be grabbed in one way and most of them are at least a pad deep, there's no sharp edges on them so they're finger friendly and the texture is just right. In fact the texture is just enough so that you know you're in contact with the hold, but still have to work holding to be able to move off of them, and this for us is where they're the best. They are forgiving, but not that forgiving, if you do something silly you'll pay for it, but not in a painful injury kind of way, you'll just be sitting on the floor wondering if you can stick the move.

We've had these holds all over the wall, and no matter what you do with them they're always thought provoking, if you need to spice up you wall at home or at the gym these are going to be just the job...


RATING
NOODLES SAYS
I've had Holdz holds on my walls for a long time, it's taken a while to get them over to the Great White North that is Canada... I've had the Mini Jugz (a later review) for years and have loved them and I've had their Sloperz as well and I have to admit that I am a little bias on those holds. I've never climbed on the Dual Texture Pocketz and I was impressed, I shy away from pockets dues to a slight finger injury that I picked up a while ago, and I have found that some of the dual tex stuff I've had in the past has been a bit lacking, you could haul on the non-textured part which kind of defeated the object or you could easily use them for feet again they missed the point. Not so in this case, they're small but not too small, they have a nice texture that gives you confidence and they look awesome! I'd like to see some of these in more gyms in the US and Canada because I think the climbers will thank you.... love em, buy them... make sure you order the most off of the wall colours you can think of because they will stand out on the wall... hell buy a black light and have a neon wall :P

CHRIS SAYS
A black light, disco ball and club mix we could call it cosmo climbing:)

The only other dual text that I've climbed on (before the petro grips review that is) are the Mini disks from Globe. Unlike the Globe, Holdz has decided to give us climbers a variety of dual text holds to chose from. Fortunately for us Holdz has sent us multiple sets of holds to test. There are the swirly pockets and swirly mini jugs and screw on crimps plus these poka dotted........I'm getting carried away.......... Back to the dual text pockets. Precision, precision, precision. That's what you'll need to stick and move on these holds. Most of the holds in our set could only incorporate two fingers (two and a half at most). If you're weak with your open hand crimp these are good holds to train on. I noticed when I first picked up a hold was how dense it was. These things are heavy and you can tell by the quality that Holdz has the experience of a well seasoned craftsman. The investment that Holdz has put into its QC department has paid of with a product that is well made and feels good on the skin.

PROS

  • Great for setting sequenced problems on or for teaching certain types of moves
  • Good for where you need an intermediate hand hold, but a rubbish foot hold, good for routes that aren't reachy
  • Mad colors - 3 colour swirls, 4 flourecent colours, 16 regular colours, spotty colours as well! (Spotty is good for colour blind people!!!)
  • Each hold is traceable in case of problems
  • Each hold is checked and certified
  • Proper dual texture, you're not matching on these!
  • Tendon friendly pockets
CONS
  • Might be expensive if you're not in the UK (But well worth the expense)(Just hope they find a US distributor - fast!)M
  • Not exactly for beginner climbers unless they're on vertical or very slightly overhanging terrain
PRICE
  • Holdz is a UK company so prices are in GBP > Great British Pound
  • Set 1 is 6 holds at 17.99 = 3 GBP per hold
  • Set 2 is 6 holds at 19.99 = 3.30 GBP per hold
  • Set 3 is 6 holds at 21.99 = 3.70 GBP per hold
  • Set 4 is 6 holds at 29.99 = 5 GBP per hold
  • The full range is 24 holds at 84.99 = 3.50 GBP per hold

test





Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Review > Metolius > Wood Grips

Metolius
Metolius have been around for years and have the name that go's along with being a first rate hold manufacturer! Well there's always been Metolius holds on my walls, either here or in the UK and a welcome addition came in the shape of some Wood Grips. I've been aware of the holds since they came out, and always wondered what they'd be like to climb on, thankfully Brooke headed my call and sent me some over...

Now when you get the holds you're going to think that someone has just chopped up some wood, sealed it, chucked a bolt hole through it and then packaged them, well you'd be wrong! I've always thought of holds as works of art, and a climbing wall (if you have one in your home) as a piece of furniture and this is where we get to the holds. They're made from offcuts from a furniture factory, they're ALL hand sanded, shaped and hand sealed so essentially you are buying a work of art! A GREEN work of art, Metoilus have taken someone else's waste and turned it into something that people buy, I wish I'd thought of the idea.

But what are they like to climb on?
At first pull you find yourself being very very delicate on them, they're slick and hard to hold onto, but once you take some time and learn how to get onto them you start realising that they're amazing... point blank amazing. Climb on them for long enough and you'll realise that the more chalk, sweat and hand oil that touches these holds the better and better they get... skin friendly, these are probably the friendliest holds that are on the wall!
So the more they get used the better they get... at the start there would be no way I would have attempted this:
NO WAY, i'd have tried that (Sorry about the video quality, I really should get a new camera)

Let me wax lyrical about the texture some more...
Image a big dual texture hold..
Without the grippy bit!
This is what these holds will feel like the first time you climb on them, add some chalk and hand oil and they get better and better! If you want to loose some of the sealer because you want some more grip? Grab some fine grade sandpaper and sand down the area you want to hold.. you can dial these holds in as you want... I'd suggest just climbing on them for some time before you do this though

We've only got 5 of these holds but there is all of these and two training boards available, the compact and deluxe versions and they're well worth a look at:
RATING:
NOODLES SAYS
Hard to hold, but pleasing to grip. An environmentally friendly hold that should be the staple of any home wall, I wasn't sure what to make of them once I had them and climbed on them but they just get nicer and nicer the more they get used. They are complete buggers for you feet, so they will help your footwork, you're going to find your feet slipping all over the place so careful placement is paramount!
These holds probably aren't for everyone, but if you have beginners on a slab, vertical wall or very slightly overhanging I think that they'd be a welcome addition, you beginners will thank you for the skin friendliness. For anyone that's a "hardcore" climber you're going to find these holds give you more pump per movement as they're harder to hold onto.

CHRIS SAYS
After a little chalking these holds turned out to stick better than expected. Really good to hone technique and you could set a sequence with them without worry of burning skin or injuring tendons. At first I thought noodles was going mad when he suggested a dynamic move to the one crimp of the set and after a few goes its obvious that these holds have a lot to offer.
The Metolius Wood Grips look great on any home wall and would turn heads at the gym but we believe that they would not last in that kind of environment

PROS
  • Skin friendly
  • Environmentally friendly
  • Holds get better the more they are used
  • Look amazing on a wall and will make anyone look twice
  • Would make an amazing addition to a home wall
  • You don't have to brush them, they are better with hand gunk on them :)
CONS
  • We're not sure what they'd be like in a commercial setting... how would they hold up to the traffic
  • They do take a few climbs before they get REALLY good

Monday, January 14, 2008

Review > Woodys Holds > Garage Cluster

woodys

Woody's sent us a hold from their line up called the "Garage Cluster", and we stuck it on the wall a while back, grabbed our chalk bags and had a pull.. to see what was up. At first glance the hold grabs your attention, it's pretty big with five of pockets clustered about the shape, upon climbing its obvious that it can be approached pretty much from any direction and that there are a multitude of ways to grab it, and then you grab it and then quite quickly (in some cases) you let go again, look at your fingers and wonder what happened!

So you try again, you move into the hold, grab the same pocket and let go again. If you're anything like us you're pretty quick to grab a wrench and to get it off of the wall so you can closer inspect whats going on... and here's what we found:

A texture that's not only some of the roughest we've come across in a long while but areas of imperfection in that texture that is just plain painful... very painful. Now add this into the fact that the pocket lips are pretty sharp and not rounded and you start wondering whether it should be bolted back onto the wall...

We're troopers over here... so back it went:
Overall it's a good hold to grab onto, anyone from a 5.5 climber or above are going to have little or no trouble pulling down on this monster. Moving dynamically into this hold does require some attention to where you're going to hit but that's just a case of practice more than anything else.

I went on over to Woody's holds and checked out their entire line, and there's a fair few holds that I've not seen before, they also have a kit that allows you to design your own hold! For $50 you will get a 3" x 2" x 7" foam blank and some sandpaper with which you can shape your hold. Once done you send off the blank and 2-4 weeks later your hold will arrive, it will be added to their catalouge of holds and you'll earn store credits for everyone sold to spend at Woody's. Now that's a pretty neat idea... we'll give it a try some time soon!

Anyway's back to the hold (I got side tracked) all that's really left to do is to rate the hold, our rating system has changed so we'll use our new "Pro's and Con's" system... with our usual comments!!

RATING
NOODLES SAYS
For $24.99 you're getting a pretty big and versatile hold, unfortunately you're also getting is a bunch of imperfections that go along with it, now i'm not really into getting holds and then having to get my Dremel out and sanding down the imperfections, I don't expect to have to do this so it's a pretty big negative for me. I also found, like we said above, that the edges on the pockets are sharp and could cause someone that's not aware of tendon injuries some harm, I've nailed alot of my finger tendons at one time or another so I was pretty careful when I climbed on this hold.
I've seen some stuff on the web from people that are super happy with the design a hold stuff that Woody's does, they looked well finished and smooth. I'd be interested to see how our hold turns out!

CHRIS SAYS
Like Noodles said you want to be careful when committing to this hold. Its big enough to do chin ups on but I wouldn't recommend doing dynos with it. On the positive, when this hold is on the wall you just want to grab onto it. So that got me interested in what other designs Woody's has to offer. I took a peek at their website and was impressed with what they have to offer. They take the time to design most of their holds around real rock. Hey Woody's: Ever think about making mold's of the real thing? All things considered, other the loss of some skin, I think this hold is a good addition for any wall.

PRO

  • Easy to hold, and lots of options to hold
  • Quite light
  • Unique design
CON
  • You must used a deck screw to stop the hold from spinning
  • The general texture is pretty full on
  • There are bobbles for texture flaws in areas that you're going to grab, that do need to be sanded down...
  • Pocket edges are quite sharp and could cause an injury if you're not careful

Friday, January 4, 2008

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Wednesday, December 12, 2007



Monday, December 10, 2007


Thursday, December 6, 2007

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Monday, December 3, 2007

Saturday, December 1, 2007

































sitemap.xml


xmlns="http://www.sitemaps.org/schemas/sitemap/0.9"
xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance"
xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.sitemaps.org/schemas/sitemap/0.9
http://www.sitemaps.org/schemas/sitemap/0.9/sitemap.xsd">


http://www.climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/
0.5
2007-12-01T18:31:41+00:00
daily